Did you know that there is a total lunar eclipse happening March 13th – March 14th, 2025? This is one of the most beautiful and unique sights in the night sky, well worth spending a few hours observing. It begins at 8:58 pm Pacific Time, but the best show will be from 10:10 pm PDT until 1:48 am, with the maximum eclipse at 11:59 pm PDT.
However, a total lunar eclipse is very challenging to photograph! So I wanted to provide some approaches, tips, and best practices you can use in order to get some good shots of this amazing event. Here’s the process I will be using to photograph tonight’s eclipse:
Know when and where
Find clear skies
Previsualize your shot
Camera settings and techniques
Make a plan and write it down

1) Know when and where
First you have to know when and where the eclipse will appear in the sky. Unlike a solar eclipse, which is usually over in a few minutes, a lunar eclipse can last hours and traverse most of the sky. The March lunar eclipse will go through the following phases (all times are given for Pacific Daylight Time, so do your time zone offset accordingly):
Time | Description |
---|---|
8:58 pm | The eclipse begins as the moon enters the Earth's penumbra, or outer shadow. The moon will get slightly darker but you won't see much difference in the moon during this phase. |
10:10 pm | The real show starts! This is when the moon begins to enter the Earth's umbra, or its true shadow. This is when you will see the "bites" being taken out of the moon. The moon will get progressively darker and darker until it's just a tiny sliver of bright light. |
11:26 pm | The moon will fully enter the Earth's shadow and its face will be lit entirely by light reflecting off the Earth. Depending on certain factors the moon may appear yellow, orange, or red during this phase. |
11:59 pm | Maximum eclipse. |
12:32 am | The moon begins to exit the Earth's shadow and grow brighter and brighter as it's lit by the sun. |
1:48 am | The moon fully exits the Earth's umbra and appears like a normal full moon once again, although it will still be technically in the outer shadow of the Earth. |
3:01 am | The eclipse fully ends when the moon leaves the Earth's penumbra. |
Now you know when, but what about where? This gets a little complicated, because it depends on where you are located in the world. This particular eclipse will be visible in its entirety for all of North America (except the far western part of Alaska) and most of South America. Other locations in the world will just be able to see part of the eclipse, or like most of Asia, it won’t be visible at all. Or you can be in a unique spot like New Zealand where the moon will be in eclipse when it rises.
But since most of my audience lives in the United States, I’ll focus on that. If you’re on the East Coast, it will be more southwest. For Hawaiians it will be looking ESE. In the West Coast it will be to the south, and very high up in the sky. You can use an app like PhotoPills in order to see exactly where it will be for your area, as well as understand how it will move through the sky.
2) Find clear skies
Obviously in order to see or photograph the eclipse you’ll need clear skies. I use the satellite view from Windy.com (which is free) in order to see where there are clouds, and where there are patches of clear sky. Much of the western US is under cloud cover today, so you may need to drive quite a ways to get a clear patch.
3) Previsualize your shot
Think about what kind of eclipse photo you want to shoot, because there are so many options!
- Do you want just a single shot of the maximum eclipse (which is by far the easiest option), or some kind of composite?
- If you’re doing a composite, how much of the eclipse and which phases do you want to include? Some people may wish to see the whole thing from start to finish, while others will be happy with just the beginning to the middle.
- How do you want your composite to appear? True to the moon’s movement, or more artistic? You can Google “Lunar Eclipse Composite” for lots of cool ideas.
- Do you want to include the stars in your photo? If so you may need to bring a second camera and lens to shoot those separately.
- Do you want to include an Earthly subject, like a tree, mountain, rock formation? This particular eclipse is so high in the sky for much of the country that it will be quite challenging to do this.
- If so, do you want to shoot it at Blue hour, illuminate it with light painting, leave it as a silhouette, etc.?
- How big do you want the eclipse to be in your photo? By zooming to 600 mm you will be able to see lots of details in the moon, but it will be very difficult to also include any other subjects. By contrast, if you shoot at 24 mm you can include a foreground subject more easily, but the moon will be quite small.
These choices will determine everything about where you shoot, which lens you use, which camera settings, and your approach to capturing the eclipse, so give it some thought.
4) Camera settings and techniques
The choices you make for your shot will dictate everything about your camera set up. In terms of camera settings, there are far too many permutations to attempt to talk about here, so I’ll just give a couple of example images and the settings I used to capture them. Your setup, shot choice, and weather will lead to different settings and you will have to experiment once you’re on location.
Regardless of your shot choice, I can offer a few best practices for settings:
- If you are shooting with a long lens, turn image stabilization on, and you will be able to shoot slightly longer shutter speeds while still getting a sharp image. You will have to experiment for the right combo of settings.
- If you are bracketing exposures of the dark and light side of the moon, the exposure difference is extreme! I recommend your brackets cover at least 8 stops at any point of the eclipse.
- The exposure difference from bright full moon to full eclipse is over 11 stops! Don’t try to bracket this whole range for the whole eclipse. Instead, set your brightest exposure for the brightest part of the moon during any phase, and adjust your exposure as the moon dims/brightens.
- Use a shutter release cable and intervalometer if you want to create a sequence of the moon.
5) Make a plan and write it down
No matter how you decide to shoot the moon, I highly suggest you write down your shooting plan. For example, if you are planning to create a composite showing the eclipse path over a tree at your house, you might write something like this:
- Sunset / Moonrise – On location, visualizing composition
- Blue Hour – Shoot landscape shot at 24 mm
- 9 pm – Start interval shooting, every 10 minutes, track exposure with moon brightness
- 10:10 pm – Start bracketed series, track exposure with moon brightness
- 11:26 pm – 12:32 am – Stop bracketing as the moon goes through total eclipse
- 12:32 – Resume bracketing
- 11:48 am, Stop bracketing as moon exits umbra
- 3 am – Stop shooting
There can be a lot of steps when photographing the eclipse, and it’s a lot to remember. A plan helps make sure you keep on track.
Of course there’s a lot more that goes into creating an amazing lunar eclipse image, but these basic steps will help get you started. If you’d like to learn more about moon planning and eclipse photography, join me for a workshop here at my classroom in Lone Pine.
Now get out there are shoot!
One Response
Excellent tutorial, really useful!